sorry - now pushed 0.0.24 - fixed the spacing.. really love python...
PS - we have a .jshintrc in the project that some editor plugins can use to help format code the way we like it 
(4 spaces, no tabs)
It was just a faulty paste 
Python... The eternal spaces versus tabs debate. It's been known to destroy relationships between otherwise compatible people: It has happened on TV, which makes it true.
1 Like
Thank you so much @dceejay and @cymplecy. I just had a chance to upgrade to 0.0.24 and it works very well now.
Hello all
I have been using this tutorial -
https://randomnerdtutorials.com/node-red-with-ws2812b-addressable-rgb-led-strip/
to control this strip-
I set the wipe time to 0 MS (on the setting of the neopixle node) The 300 LED strip is now very very fast.
I'm having a weird thing with each end of the light. the start of the strip is the correct color but the far end is not. If I tell it to do all R or G or B the colors look fine but a blend gives me a different color from one side to the other. Here is a pic of the strip just trying to white-
It also looks funny with other colors, if I try to do a green it looks washed out, a yellow and it goes red at the end.
I have three questions
1- Is this normal? I hope not. Does it look like a software issue or a bad strand of LED's?
2- The dash board from the above tutorial works fine for a few adjustments then slows way down to the point of being unusable, is there a fix for that?
3- is there a better way to control these lights, my ideal would be to have them run at a simulated 2700-3000k color temp and only make different colors when I have a party or at the holidays.
Thank you for all of your advice.
You may be having too large a voltage drop along the strip. Its description on Amazon refers to "separate power/ground wires on both ends for injecting power in case of voltage drop."
I did not realize that a voltage drop looked like that. I put an additional 5 volts from a larger power supply at the far end and they turned the right color! Thank you very much
1 Like
Putting a second supply at the far end can have unexpected consequences, so rather than using a another power supply at the far end, run +/gnd wires separate from the strip and solder them in every 100 pixels or so. Or it may be enough to run +/gnd separately the entire length of the strip and solder them in at the far end. I have long strings of the "bullet" style pixels that I use for outdoor decoration (in winter) and I have to run AWG16 (~1.6mm^2) power lines in parallel or the far end is always very reddish. Blue LEDs require a higher voltage to turn on so when you lose voltage over the length of the string, there is no blue at the end.
The cheaper WS2812B strips you get on Amazon and direct from China do not have very much copper in the power traces. The same LEDs used in industrial/entertainment industry applications are much more expensive because there is lots more copper in the traces.
1 Like
Old post I know, but I wanted to add that my revised Christmas setup demonstrated to me that 12V pixels are better than 5V pixels for long runs. The is still a voltage drop but at the far end of a 300 pixel run, there is still enough voltage for correct colors. I can get away without injecting power along the length of the strip or at the end. I replaced the 5V "bullet pixels" with 12V ones and no longer need to parallel +/gnd and inject every so often. I bought them on Amazon and got the ones with the "Ray Wu" connectors which are wonderful (and watertight).
1 Like
Have you got a link to the one's you bought?
I bought mine on Amazon but I cannot find them on Amazon.co.uk. The seller I used has an LED store on Aliexpress, and I am pretty sure these are the ones I bought initially:
https://tinyurl.com/rhfk8my
The connectors are 13.5mm
One of the Aliexpress stores that the Big Lighted Christmas Display crowd over here uses is "Ray Wu". He is spoken of very highly and also sells the 12V pixels I like.
Ta 
What's the signaling voltage needed? Can they be driven directly from an 3.3V ESP or a Pi?
I think you will find you need a 'Level Shifter' to get consistent and reliable results when driving the Neopixels from a RPi and/or a Wemos (ESP8266).
You can either use a 2N7000 and a couple of resistors or purchase a ready-made level-shifter PCB.
